Asian Access To Black Hair Care Products (2025)

The black hair industry has been dominated by Asian-owned businesses for decades, with over 9,000 Korean-owned beauty supply stores in the US alone. This phenomenon is not limited to the US, as the black hair industry in the UK and other parts of the world also exhibits a similar trend. Various factors have contributed to this situation, including the history of immigration, business practices, and cultural dynamics. The topic has sparked discussions and debates around race, competition, and the quest for diverse representation in the hair industry.

The history of Asian-owned black hair product stores

Asian-owned black hair product stores have a complex history that dates back decades. While it is common for immigrant groups to cluster in specific industry sectors, leading to domination or monopolies, the involvement of Asian merchants, particularly Korean-Americans, in the black hair product industry has sparked tensions.

The roots of this tension lie in the perception that Korean-Americans have cornered the market for black hair products, specifically hair extensions, by controlling manufacturing, distribution, and retail sales. This perception is not unfounded, as many African-American owners believe that Korean wholesalers deliberately shut them out by refusing to supply their products to black-owned businesses. Additionally, the cultural and language barriers between Asian store owners and their black customers have contributed to feelings of resentment and racial tension.

However, it is important to note that historically, African-Americans have been involved in the manufacturing of products and styling hair at beauty salons and barbershops. The shift towards Asian dominance in the industry began in the 1960s when Korean immigrants innovated the storefront model, selling wigs and other hair products directly to African-American women. Over time, this led to a situation where the majority of black hair product stores were owned by Asian individuals, with some sources estimating this figure to be as high as 90%.

In recent years, there has been a growing movement to support black-owned businesses and break the perceived monopoly of Asian-owned stores in the black hair product industry. Efforts such as the Black-Owned Beauty Supply Association and the Atlanta-based Beauty Supply Institute, which offers courses and resources to help blacks enter the industry, are working to address this imbalance. Additionally, some black entrepreneurs are creating separate supply chains and promoting lesser-known hair lines through social media to circumvent the Asian-dominated wholesale market.

Despite these efforts, the issue remains complex and fraught with racial tensions. The economic imbalance, where African-Americans spend a significant amount of money on hair products without reaping the financial benefits, continues to fuel resentment. Furthermore, the hiring of black staff by Asian-owned stores has been viewed as a tokenistic solution that does not address the underlying issues of racial dynamics and unequal power structures within the industry.

Why Asian-owned stores are popular

Asian-owned stores have become popular for a variety of reasons, including cultural factors, business practices, and the range of products offered.

One factor contributing to the popularity of Asian-owned stores is their ability to cater to specific cultural needs and preferences. For example, Asian-owned grocery stores and restaurants offer authentic Asian flavours and ingredients that may not be easily found elsewhere. Similarly, Asian-owned beauty supply stores, particularly those catering to the Black hair industry, have become popular among Black consumers due to the range of products offered. This includes wigs, weaves, and other hair extensions, which have been in high demand within the Black community.

The business practices and strategies employed by Asian-owned stores have also contributed to their popularity. Asian merchants have been known to cluster in specific sectors of an industry, leading to domination or monopolies. This has allowed them to control the manufacturing, distribution, and retail sale of certain products, making them the go-to source for these items. Additionally, some Asian-owned stores have been praised for their customer service, with staff who are attentive and knowledgeable about the products they sell.

Another factor contributing to the popularity of Asian-owned stores is their ability to provide unique and diverse products that may not be easily found elsewhere. This includes specialty items such as Asian literature, traditional medicine, and Asian-inspired home goods and clothing. Asian-owned businesses have also been praised for their innovation, creating new and improved products that cater to specific cultural or community needs, such as plant-based ramen, Asian-inspired sparkling water, and natural baby care products.

The popularity of Asian-owned stores can also be attributed to the support and promotion of these businesses within the Asian community and beyond. Many individuals actively seek out Asian-owned brands and businesses to show their social and financial support, particularly in response to hate crimes or other discriminatory incidents. Additionally, some Asian-owned stores have gained popularity through word-of-mouth recommendations, with customers sharing their positive experiences with others, leading more people to patronize these businesses.

How Asians gained control of the black hair product market

The black hair product market is a multibillion-dollar industry, with Korean-Americans owning more than 70% of 10,000 beauty supply stores nationwide. However, the history of how Asians gained control of this market is complex and multifaceted.

In the 1960s, Korean immigrants innovated the storefront model for selling wigs and other hair products to African-American women, who were previously served through door-to-door sales. Over time, Korean-Americans gained control of the manufacturing, distribution, and retail sale of hair extensions, which became the most profitable segment of the industry. They achieved this by leveraging their connections in China, India, and Southeast Asia, where most of the hair products were sourced and imported from. This allowed them to monopolize the market and create barriers to entry for African-American entrepreneurs.

Korean wholesalers have been accused of denying or ignoring requests for products from African-American business owners, further solidifying their control over the supply chain. Additionally, immigrant groups often cluster in specific industries, and the black beauty supply store industry provided a low-hanging fruit for the Korean community to dominate. They helped each other establish businesses, creating a strong network that excluded other racial groups.

The perceived economic imbalance and racial tensions have led to resentment among African-American consumers, who feel locked out of the industry. Some have called for a boycott of Asian-owned hair product stores, advocating for funneling funds into scholarships for the Black community instead. Despite these tensions, some African-American entrepreneurs are finding success by creating separate supply chains and promoting their businesses on social media. They are also receiving support from community members who prioritize patronizing Black-owned businesses.

In the UK, the black hair industry is also predominantly owned by the Asian community, specifically South Asian men. However, the exact timeline and reasons for this shift in ownership are unclear. Dyke & Dryden, a Black-owned hair company, once dominated the market but eventually sold their business to an American company, which some believe marked the point when the Black community lost control of the industry.

Black hair product monopolies

The black hair product industry is a multibillion-dollar industry, valued at more than $2.5 billion, not including hair accessories, wigs, or electric styling tools. Korean-Americans own more than 70% of 10,000 beauty supply stores nationwide, controlling the manufacturing, distribution, and retail sale of hair extensions. This dominance has created a monopoly in the black hair product market, with African-American owners facing challenges in accessing products and establishing their businesses.

The roots of this monopoly can be traced back to the 1960s when Korean immigrants introduced the storefront model for selling wigs and other hair products to African-American women. Over time, Korean-Americans solidified their position in the industry by supporting each other in business ventures and leveraging their collective strength. They have been accused of blocking Black businesses from entering the market, including refusing to supply products to Black-owned stores and creating catalogs in Korean to cater to Black women. This has led to tensions and resentment within the Black community, with efforts now focused on creating separate supply chains for African-Americans.

While some Black entrepreneurs have found success through initiatives like the Atlanta-based Beauty Supply Institute, which offers courses and resources to help Black individuals enter the industry, breaking into the market remains challenging. The perceived economic imbalance has sparked racial tensions, with many Black consumers expressing a desire to support Black-owned businesses. However, the lack of accessibility and visibility of these enterprises creates a budget issue for consumers who want to support them.

The black hair product industry's dynamics have resulted in a situation where Black consumers feel they have no choice but to patronize Asian-owned beauty supply stores, even if they are uncomfortable with the service or suspicious of being followed in these stores. This highlights the complexities of the market and the ongoing struggle for Black entrepreneurs to establish themselves in the face of a powerful monopoly.

To address these issues, some Black-owned businesses are taking matters into their own hands. For example, Ennon, a group that offers support and exclusive hair brands to its members, recently struck a deal in China to create a new hair brand exclusively for black-owned shops. This move aims to bypass the Korean-dominated supply chain and foster economic empowerment within the Black community.

The future of black-owned hair product stores

In the past, the black hair product industry has been dominated by Korean-American businesses, which controlled the manufacturing, distribution, and retail sale of hair extensions and other hair products. This has created tension and competition between black entrepreneurs and Korean-owned businesses, with some African-American owners feeling shut out by Korean wholesalers.

However, there is a growing movement to support black-owned businesses and create a separate supply chain for African-Americans in the hair product industry. Organizations like the Atlanta-based Beauty Supply Institute are helping black entrepreneurs get their ventures off the ground, providing resources, training, and support to break into the market.

In recent years, there has been a significant increase in the number of black-owned hair product stores and brands, such as Alikay Naturals, The Doux, Brown Butter Beauty, AfroPick, Rucker Roots, and Sienna Naturals. These businesses are creating professional-quality products for all hair types, using organic and natural ingredients, and advocating for fair trade practices.

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